Innovative farming practices offer sustainable solutions in the heart of the city.
“Chefs must take only small, fixed amounts of crops at a time,” explains Christopher Leow, the 34-year-old head farmer of 1-Arden’s Food Forest and executive at Edible Garden City. “Otherwise, we risk disrupting the balance of the food forest’s ecosystem.” This unwritten rule is vital for the chefs at the 1-Arden restaurants to ensure sustainable harvesting from their farm, which sits 51 stories above the bustling streets of CapitaSpring, located at 88 Market Street.
Open to the public during select hours, the 1-Arden Food Forest utilizes sustainable farming techniques alongside a closed-loop farming approach, recycling organic matter back into the soil. This symbiotic relationship benefits both the restaurants—Kaarla and Oumi—and the food forest itself. “The organic fertilizers derived from composting the restaurants’ food waste nourish the soil, ensuring that the restaurants know exactly what goes into the fertilizers, which ultimately affects the quality of the food served to diners.”
With these self-sustaining methods, 1-Arden exemplifies a shift in Singapore’s food and beverage (F&B) scene, addressing issues of produce scarcity exacerbated by recent food bans, such as the ban on chicken imports from Malaysia and shortages of exported fish.
Embracing Sustainability in Edible Gardens
A walk through the food forest reveals a rich diversity of native plants, including Okinawa Spinach, Rosemary, Lemon Myrtle, and Sabah Snake Grass, meticulously arranged in designated plots like the Singapore Food Heritage Garden and The Wellness Garden. Dressed in a green shirt, khaki shorts, and brown boots, Christopher tends to the crops with a dedication that is apparent despite the warm sun and the surrounding chatter from curious retirees and tourists.
“Not all plants here are chosen for their food value; some contribute to the ecosystem,” Christopher notes, pointing to the Black Face General, a plant with cancer-preventing properties, though it isn’t currently utilized in the kitchen. “Some plants help inject more oxygen into the soil, benefiting others, while horizontally growing plants like banana trees protect the soil from rain damage, reducing erosion and nutrient runoff.”
The practice of using green covers not only aids soil health but also helps ensure the longevity of arable land for future farmers in Singapore. “If we want to extend the soil’s viability for the next generation, using green covers can greatly enhance its quality,” he adds.
A Farmer’s Journey
Interestingly, farming was not Christopher’s original career path. He initially pursued a degree in aerospace engineering, influenced by societal and familial expectations. However, after transitioning to a culinary career, he was shocked by the food waste generated in fine-dining establishments. This prompted him to seek alternatives for food production, leading to a transformative backpacking trip across the globe.
During his travels, he lived with a self-sufficient farming family in New South Wales, Australia, which inspired him to advocate for self-sustainability upon his return to Singapore. He undertook various agricultural projects, including Nutopia, a rooftop community garden, before becoming the head farmer at 1-Arden Food Forest.
Composting as a New Frontier
On a typical weekday, the food farm buzzes with visitors, while Christopher’s composting station hums discreetly nearby. “I hide it from the public because it can be unsightly,” he chuckles. “This is where I ferment kitchen waste, like fish guts, and test it on different soil beds to enhance nutrient levels.”
This method of recycling food waste not only reduces Singapore’s rising food waste—up by 23% in 2021 compared to the previous year—but also bolsters crop health. Christopher believes that regenerative farming practices should be emphasized alongside agricultural technology, especially with the government’s 30 by 30 plan aimed at achieving 30% local food production by 2030.
“While technology isn’t inherently negative, it can produce waste and consume significant resources,” he explains, highlighting the environmental impact of fossil fuel-dependent machinery used in traditional farming.
Harmonizing F&B Concepts with Local Farms
Amidst the lush greenery, a few butter-yellow pumpkin flowers begin to bloom, set to be harvested by the chefs at 1-Arden. Unlike imported produce, the chefs can utilize these ingredients at their peak, especially since pumpkin flowers only blossom for a few hours daily.
Executive chef John Paul Fietchner emphasizes the importance of anticipating future harvests. “We have to think a month or two ahead regarding what we can grow and how to use surplus produce,” he states. He recounts how diners often comment on the unique flavor and freshness of the dishes made with locally sourced ingredients.
Chef John appreciates the dynamic nature of working with Christopher, whose ongoing experimentation with plant placements and harvesting dates keeps the culinary process exciting. “It’s every chef’s dream to work with such fresh produce. The daily changes inspire creativity in the kitchen,” he adds.
Reducing Reliance on Imported Produce
“There is growing interest in farming among young people here,” Chef John observes. “It’s rare in my home country, Australia. I think many more restaurants will start cultivating their own food.”
Christopher echoes this sentiment, noting the increase in community gardens across Singapore. “Regenerative farming aligns perfectly with our national 30 by 30 goal and also benefits the environment,” he states. He believes there are numerous underutilized spaces throughout Singapore that can support farming initiatives.
“The cooler rooftop temperatures at CapitaSpring enhance plant growth, alleviating the space constraints common in traditional farming,” he explains. Christopher argues for the urgent need for local food production, especially given current geopolitical uncertainties affecting traditional import sources.
A Bright Future for Urban Farming
The future of farming in Singapore appears promising, as innovative collaborations between farms and restaurants like 1-Arden demonstrate the potential for unique farming practices to yield productive results. This shift could pave the way for increased local food production and help achieve the national 30 by 30 goal, ultimately reducing dependence on imported produce.
Christopher believes urban farming can cultivate public interest in sustainable practices. “It provides an opportunity for many to engage with urban farming and appreciate the effort required for sustainable food production,” he remarks. “Working with culinary teams like the one at 1-Arden makes our produce relatable and exciting for the general public.”
