Celebrating the Unique Charm and Nostalgia of a Beloved Chain
My most cherished memories of Long John Silver’s (LJS) transport me back to the humid days of secondary school and spontaneous late-night snacks. While the specifics may be a bit hazy, I vividly recall the thrill of indulging in battered fish and chips instead of the usual burgers and fries.
The fried dory fish and chicken, coated in a golden batter, were incredibly juicy. Accompanying them were thick, hearty chips (not the thin-cut fries), generously drizzled with a sweet and tangy cheese sauce—questionable cheese, perhaps, but oh well.
Let’s not forget the delightful crunchy crumbs. While they were delicious, I never quite managed to finish those crispy bits of batter that were sprinkled on generously—a heart attack waiting to happen on a plate.
Then there was that enormous golden bell hanging in the corner of the restaurant, a kitschy relic inviting customers to express their love for LJS by ringing it. I never dared to pull that bell, but I do remember my schoolmates challenging each other to do so. Ringing the bell meant all eyes were on you, which would have been a nightmare for a shy teenager like me.
Feeding Nostalgia
For die-hard LJS fans in Singapore, June 18, 2021, marked a significant loss: the announcement of the closure of their iconic Lot 1 outlet. This news sparked passionate reactions on social media, with many lamenting the loss of their beloved hangout and reminiscing about wild memories from their school days.
Some shared stories of timid first dates that unfolded in the cherished confines of battered delights. “I visited almost every other week… because no one knew how to cook [and] my sister is a picky eater. She only likes Long John Silver’s and chicken rice,” recalled Eris, a 17-year-old student. Her parents would take her and her sister to Long John Silver’s at OneKM (now known as Kinex) during weekends since their primary school days.
Like me, June Lim, a dedicated supporter of the chain, recognizes its distinctiveness compared to other fast food options. As a teenager in Jurong East, she considered Long John Silver’s “one of the coolest places to eat; they had those crispy bits, and their fries were quite different from the rest.”
Her admiration for LJS has remained unwavering through the years. Now 32 and married, she still visits the chain two to three times a week with her husband, who is also a fan.
Despite its reputation for being quiet most of the time, LJS is still cherished among its loyal customers. I, myself, haven’t set foot in an outlet in two decades, but its survival with just a handful of locations (19 in total, as of the latest count) certainly raises intriguing questions.
How an Island Embraced Fast Food Trends
Every great love story begins with an unexpected and serendipitous meeting.
Long John Silver’s made its debut in Singapore in 1983, arriving two decades later than other major fast food chains but distinguishing itself with its battered seafood and chicken tenders, complemented by its maximalist nautical-themed decor.
The chain rode the wave of American fast food chains that flooded Singapore in the late 1960s, starting with A&W. With newfound affluence and a hunger for Western-style capitalism, Singaporeans eagerly devoured the glossy advertisements featuring perfectly crafted burgers (each sesame seed in its rightful place), golden fries, and enticing toys that actually resembled toys.
Today, the larger players like McDonald’s, KFC, and Burger King maintain their competitive edge with limited-time seasonal items, unique flavors (who doesn’t love a bag of mala shaker fries?), and continual renovations of their outlets.
Meanwhile, smaller brands like LJS have struggled to keep pace. Taco Bell and Wendy’s both attempted to capitalize on our enduring love for fast food but ultimately failed, shuttering in 2008 and 2015, respectively. The former was criticized for overpriced, small portions of subpar Tex-Mex cuisine, while the latter simply couldn’t compete with the industry giants.
Despite this, more American fast food chains continue to enter our market. The Manhattan-based burger joint Shake Shack opened its doors in April 2019, followed closely by Five Guys, which also joined the premium burger trend in the same year. Both have experienced growth, with Shake Shack boasting eight outlets islandwide and Five Guys trailing with three.
Of Secret Societies and Money Laundering
Amidst fierce competition, it remains a mystery how Long John Silver’s—unchanged and unfazed—has endured while the dust settles on its bells. I’m not the only one to have noticed.
A viral tweet in 2018 humorously suggested that “a secret society of people living among us is keeping Long John Silver’s in business.”
Then in 2019, a conspiracy theory emerged on the Reddit channel /r/conspiracy/, where a user speculated that Long John Silver’s was allegedly being used by the Kentucky-based Cornbread Mafia, led by John Robert Boone, to launder profits from their illegal marijuana operations.
In 2021, a TikTok user resurfaced this theory, now claiming the chain was involved in money laundering for ISIS. The video quickly gained traction, prompting viewers to visit LJS outlets for their own investigative endeavors.
The results of that amateur sleuthing? Inconclusive.
An American Business with a Japanese Twist
An in-depth look at Long John Silver’s turbulent history in Singapore reveals tales of corporate confusion that might clarify its ambiguous position among local fast food chains.
When LJS entered the local market in the early ‘80s, it was owned by Jerrico Inc., which filed for bankruptcy in 1998. Even in America, it appeared that Long John Silver’s was struggling to turn a profit.
It changed hands several times—first with A&W, then to Yorkshire Global Restaurants, followed by Triton Global, before rebranding as Yum!.
By 2011, Yum! sought to divest from Long John Silver’s to concentrate on its more profitable brands like Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, and KFC. This decision ultimately led to the chain appointing its own CEO, James O’Reilly, to manage the brand independently.
In Singapore, the franchise is now under the umbrella of Zensho Food Singapore, the local branch of the Japanese company Zensho Group.
Unlike its Japanese counterpart, which operates multiple Japanese restaurants, Zensho Food Singapore manages only two other brands here: the halal-certified Ichikokudo Hokkaido Ramen and the gyudon chain Sukiya.
Currently, there are 19 LJS outlets scattered across the island, each offering varying standards of battered fish, chicken, and prawns, according to Reddit users on /r/singapore. This number is reasonable compared to A&W, which has just five outlets, but it pales in comparison to McDonald’s, which boasts over 130 locations.
Notably, the chain has closed many of its centrally located stores, opting instead to expand aggressively into the Western and Northern regions of Singapore. Perhaps due to rising rental costs and catering to families and students, LJS outlets are primarily found in heartland malls, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic (think: MRT stations).
Still, the lingering question remains: how did a Japanese company come to manage an American fast food chain? Unfortunately, all attempts to reach out to Zensho have yielded no response.
Embracing the Main Character Energy at LJS
Beyond the convenience and unwavering loyalty to Long John Silver’s, devoted customers often take advantage of the chain’s reasonably priced meal sets and relatively empty restaurants for some well-deserved self-care.
Some individuals visit their nearest outlet to channel their inner “Main Character.”
Eris, a regular at the Singpost Centre outlet in Paya Lebar, enjoys her go-to Fish and Chips Set A—one piece of fish with cheesy mashed potatoes—as part of her self-care routine.
“Visiting LJS is my peaceful moment. I sit quietly with my music and pretend to be the main character,” she reflects wistfully.
According to dictionary.com, the #maincharacter trend is popular on TikTok, where individuals act as though their lives are movies, casting themselves as the leading role.
It’s no wonder that Long John Silver’s perfectly aligns with this narrative. Most outlets tend to be quiet (read: empty) throughout the day, creating a strikingly poetic contrast against the bustling backdrop of a crowded mall.
While this isn’t a definitive indicator of the business’s health, the gleaming vacant tables beckon those in search of a respite from the long queues at more popular dining spots.
“It’s just the fish, the chips, and me,” says Eris.
She adds, “The fact that LJS isn’t popular means you can easily find seats. I went at noon, and there were so many empty tables, making it such a chill experience.”
Although the offerings from fast food giants like McDonald’s and KFC are appreciated, the raucous laughter of primary school children isn’t the zen environment Eris seeks.
Some customers have also outgrown the bright blues and yellows of the chain’s decor, which, depending on the outlet, can vary significantly. Three out of five people I spoke with prefer to take their LJS orders home for a more relaxed experience.
For SMU student Gan Hui Min, dining at Long John Silver’s used to be a family outing but has since transformed into a solo affair. Having moved past the gaudy decor of the Tiong Bahru outlet, which she finds “dreary,” she now takes advantage of the self-pick-up discount on Grab.
“I’m the only one in my family with a peculiar fondness for LJS,” she proudly shares.
Hui Min enjoys the chain’s ‘one chicken and one fish meal with Milo’ combo so much that she’d rather walk to the outlet than visit the nearby Burger King.
“The food feels more substantial and less artificial, which is pretty decent for what you get,” she explains.
For Whom the Bell Tolls
Although the fast food chain may lack the latest touchscreen ordering systems and still provides plastic cutlery in an increasingly eco-conscious society, their reluctance to adapt could be seen as a badge of honor.
In a way, it’s like giving the finger to fast food consumerism, an intentional act of defiance against the big corporations that dictate the trends. Or perhaps they simply lack the resources to change. But we’re free to believe what we wish (including the conspiracy theories).
It’s certainly commendable how this sleepy chain has outlasted numerous American fast food brands that have come and gone, despite its lack of cultural relevance. Whether through strategic outlet placement or the support of a secret society, Long John Silver’s has demonstrated that patience pays off.
And while it may be less flashy than its fast food counterparts, it doesn’t mean Long John Silver’s hasn’t made any attempts to remain relevant.
A quick look at their social media shows they regularly roll out new promotional menus and flavors, including a laksa wrap for the upcoming National Day. During the last Lunar New Year, they even transformed the Prosperity Salad into a solo lohei. Innovative!
Unfortunately, none of these efforts have garnered the viral fame of McDonald’s Nasi Lemak burgers just yet. However, the customers I spoke with indicated that returning to LJS isn’t about novelty.
June describes it perfectly: “For us, LJS is the ultimate comfort food.” For the couple, each visit is an exercise in familiar predictability: one crispy fish and fries with Milo for her and a three-piece chicken and fries set for him.
“For our anniversary one year, we decided to eat there,” June reminisces. “After a long day at work, just the thought of dinner at LJS lifts both my husband and me. It’s a place where we know we’ll always be satisfied.”
