Unveiling the Heart and Soul of the Culinary Team Before Service Begins
“Before Service” takes you behind the scenes in the hours leading up to lunch or dinner at an F&B outlet. This series aims to illuminate the dedicated individuals who tirelessly work behind closed doors to create memorable and meaningful dining experiences for guests. What stories lie behind the scenes for these culinary professionals?
Our journey begins at Pangium, a Singaporean-owned restaurant founded by chef Malcolm Lee. With a team of passionate staff, Pangium serves up a menu inspired by comfort food from the Straits.
Arriving at the restaurant at 1:30 PM on a Thursday, I find a welcome respite from the sweltering heat at the entrance of Pangium. At just seven months old, this restaurant is still a newcomer, created by Chef-Owner Malcolm Lee, 38. His previous venture, Candlenut, is celebrated as the world’s first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant.
At Pangium, Chef Lee dives deep into Contemporary Straits cuisine, reimagining beloved dishes from our grandparents’ kitchens. The menu features subtle and elegant twists, including tempoyak made with Mao Shan Wang durian, buah keluak sambal with oxtail, and hand-minced duck satay wrapped in caul fat.
While I would love to indulge in all these dishes, my purpose today is to uncover what happens before the dinner or lunch rush begins. It’s easy to critique an F&B outlet based on what’s served to diners, but understanding the lives, motivations, and aspirations of those working behind the scenes can foster empathy and appreciation.
As I brace myself for the expected chaos, Chef Lee’s wife, Jessline Lee, 33, Pangium’s Senior Operations Manager, greets me with warmth, instantly calming my nerves. She invites me on a tour of the kitchen, where chefs are already hard at work, just six hours before service begins.
Despite the looming deadline, the kitchen radiates tranquility. Soft pop melodies float through the air, mingling with the rhythmic sounds of chopping and slicing. No one is yelling—it’s a surprisingly meditative environment, far from the dramatic chaos I had anticipated.
1:30 PM — Kitchen
For the next couple of hours, the chefs remain absorbed in their tasks, the kitchen filled only with quiet murmurs and the occasional clatter of pots. The sound of a knife cutting through celery resonates in the stillness.
The team operates like a well-oiled machine, with Chef Lee leading the way and establishing a focused atmosphere. “The team checks reservations, dietary needs, and table requirements, organizes mise en place, and prepares ingredients for the week ahead,” he shares. “Every small detail matters; overlooking one can create stress and hinder our service.”
As Chef Lee works through urgent administrative tasks—emails, HR issues, menu planning, and ingredient sourcing—he prepares to immerse himself fully in the kitchen. “Once I’m hands-on, I’ll focus exclusively on the kitchen until service concludes,” he explains.
Supporting him is his right-hand man, Executive Sous Chef Brian Chan, 32, who honed his skills at the Michelin-starred French restaurant La Folie in San Francisco. His role involves preparing various components for each course, ensuring that every dish, from amuse-bouche to main course, is executed flawlessly.
Out of the corner of my eye, I see Chef Lee assisting a colleague with a pot of bright yellow curry, offering advice on its preparation. The aroma is still mild, but I have faith it will develop into a complex bouquet of spices. “You must keep stirring to avoid burning it, and it will thicken as it cooks,” he advises.
2:15 PM — Front-of-House
At 2 PM, the front-of-house team arrives. Senior sommelier Helen Chong, 43, holds a meeting with a wine supplier in a private room, while Assistant Manager John Tnee, 32, begins setting the tables.
Chong previously worked at Summer Pavilion, while Tnee spent two and a half years at Odette before taking a position as Assistant Restaurant Manager at Esora.
While setting tables may seem trivial, Tnee emphasizes that a well-arranged table reflects attention to detail and refinement. His meticulousness is evident as he carefully positions cutlery and glassware, ensuring symmetry in every napkin fold.
“Guests may not notice the precision we employ in table settings, but the details speak volumes about our service standards,” Tnee explains. “Since 80 to 90 percent of patrons photograph the restaurant or their meals, it’s crucial our table settings look impeccable.”
With 14 years of F&B experience, Tnee shares his favorite aspect of working at Pangium: tasting the food and wine. “If you only eat to live, you can’t fully appreciate the chefs’ intentions,” he enthusiastically remarks.
Restaurant Operations Manager Lee Jia Ling, 34, ensures the front-of-house supplies are well-stocked and organized for smooth service. Her calm demeanor mirrors that of the kitchen, as she balances menu sorting with friendly banter with Tnee.
“As front-of-house staff, we serve as a bridge between the chefs and the guests, sharing stories about the cuisine while providing professional service,” she states. Finding individuals who grasp the essence of hospitality and are willing to put in hard work is a challenge in Singapore.
Having previously worked at the 3-Michelin-starred Odette, she now appreciates the work-life balance Pangium offers. “The four-day workweek here is something I truly value,” she says.
Chong curates the wine list, organizing selections by flavor rather than varietal or origin. When pairing wines with Asian dishes, she relies on sauces to guide her choices. “The sauces are integral to the cuisine and help me navigate wine pairings,” she notes.
As the clock nears 4 PM, it’s time for the team to enjoy a family meal, a vital moment for camaraderie. Jessline gathers orders from the front-of-house staff, including my own—a kind gesture that makes me feel welcomed.
3:45 PM to 5 PM — Back to the Kitchen
Returning to the kitchen, I find Chef Lee still focused on the curry pot. I hope he hasn’t been at it for the last two hours, but given his perfectionist tendencies, I wouldn’t be surprised.
“Sometimes, we become so engrossed in prep that we forget to hydrate and prioritize eating,” he admits. With service approaching, the atmosphere is serene, the team completing final prep work.
As the dinner crowd draws near, Jessline shares her hiring philosophy. “True hospitality is about caring for strangers—taking care of guests. That’s the quality we seek in our staff.”
At Pangium, qualifications take a backseat to passion and compassion. “We don’t necessarily seek years of experience; understanding the spirit of service is more important,” Jessline emphasizes.
A team of pastry chefs from Candlenut enters the kitchen, bringing sweet creations for Chef Lee to review. He taste-tests most items, although he sets aside a cookie base for a mango sticky rice dessert.
As dessert preparations unfold, precision is paramount. Pastry Sous Chef Ham Hyeseon, 29, who previously worked at Michelin-starred restaurants, notes that creating Kueh Salat is particularly challenging. “We follow a recipe, but constant adjustments are made based on temperature and humidity to ensure optimal quality for our guests,” she explains.
5:15 PM to 6 PM — The Guest Sheet
The energy in the kitchen shifts as dinner service nears. Tools are organized, and prepped ingredients are set for assembly. The front-of-house team brings in the guest sheet, detailing the evening’s guests, dietary needs, and special requests.
Tonight, the restaurant will host 19 guests, including several returning patrons, which is impressive for a Thursday evening.
Jessline and Ling are busy wiping wine glasses, and the rest of the front-of-house staff trickles in for their family meal. This gathering reinforces Jessline’s earlier sentiment: “If we take care of the house, we can take care of service.”
Everyone is in good spirits. When a team member enjoys coffee, Chong jokes about his late caffeine consumption. “It’s all mental; if you think you can’t sleep, you won’t,” he quips, eliciting laughter.
As dinner service approaches, the kitchen team finalizes their preparations. The atmosphere is electric, and the moment is imminent.
6 PM — Front-of-House
Dressed in muted gray blazers and white t-shirts, the front-of-house team prepares for their pre-service huddle. Jessline leads the briefing, noting that one of her friends in attendance requires special assistance.
Many guests are celebrating special occasions, and a “welcome celebration” treat is prepared for a patron named Mr. Chen.
Chong discusses wine and sake pairings for the evening’s menu, fostering an atmosphere of learning and camaraderie among the team. They also touch upon preparations for a private event scheduled for the following day.
As Jessline shares positive feedback from previous guests, she emphasizes the importance of mutual care among the team. “We put our hearts into our service, so let’s replicate that tonight,” she encourages.
With mellow music filling the dining room, Jessline, along with my photographer Zach and me, heads to the back door with our takeaway dinners.
We take a moment to glance at the now brightly lit dining hall, filled with anticipation. The first guests have begun to arrive, and from what I’ve observed, they are in for a delightful evening.
6:30 PM — Service Begins
