As nightlife faces closure, workers reflect on community and the challenges ahead.
It’s about eight in the evening when I enter Orchard Towers. Unlike neighboring malls that are buzzing with post-pandemic dinner crowds, most establishments here remain shut. Only a Thai restaurant and a convenience store draw a crowd, while the rest of the mall seems stuck in the shadows of social distancing and retail closures.
Soon, the few surviving units will have no choice but to close their doors, relegating their signature bright neon facade to the annals of history.
I make my way to the top floor of the mall, where a few workers from massage and beauty parlours are sitting outside their units. Here, I meet the team behind Project X, a non-profit organization advocating for sex worker rights. For nearly seven years, they have conducted outreach at Orchard Towers, offering free STI tests, distributing condoms, and overseeing the well-being of workers. All that outreach will soon come to an abrupt halt.
In August, it was announced that nightlife establishments in Orchard Towers would not have their licenses renewed, necessitating permanent closure by May 2023, when their current licenses expire. A police spokesperson stated that this decision was due to ongoing law and order concerns, noting that “the situation in Orchard Towers remains of concern and has not improved over the years.”
Over the decades, Orchard Towers has developed a questionable reputation, marred by reports of violence and vice activities. However, many landlords and workers feel that this portrayal is often unfair and exaggerated. One landlord shared with the Straits Times that they were “willing to work with the authorities to address the problems,” but lamented that this blanket ban unfairly penalizes many operators.
Echoing this sentiment, Helen, a masseuse at Orchard Towers, remarked, “It feels like some reporters are exaggerating. There are instances of fights and vice activities, but many of these happened long ago.”
I encounter a group of Filipino women at the back corner of a hallway, enjoying drinks outside the bar where they work. One of them, a mother, came to Singapore to support her son’s education back home. When I mention the impending closure of nightlife establishments—which will lead to her losing her job—she emphasizes that the mall and its workers are often misunderstood.
“Yes, there are cases of prostitution, but not all the girls here are like that,” she stresses, as we move to a railing overlooking the mall. I offer to take a few portrait photos of her with my iPhone 14, opting for discretion over a DSLR to avoid drawing unnecessary attention. To my relief, the phone’s larger camera sensor captures the surroundings beautifully, and her eyes light up when I show her the photos.
She candidly shares that her experience at the mall contrasts sharply with online reports. Here, she has built a solid community of friends and colleagues, cherishing the moments spent together singing, dancing, and dining. “I’ll miss Orchard Towers,” she confesses. “Every day we eat, drink, dance, and sing together. My favorite part is enjoying Tom Yum downstairs.”
As I prepare to leave for the night, I witness the camaraderie among the workers. I spot two masseurs greeting an older man with warmth as he brings them food.
I approach him, and he proudly shares that he has worked at Orchard Towers for 35 years. He poses eagerly for my camera, the blurred background of closed units creating a dreamy bokeh effect. “I’ve been a masseur since I was 16, and now I’m 51,” he smiles. “When the girls need a massage, they call me. I bring them food because I know they work late.”
When I ask for his thoughts on the impending closure, he responds candidly, “Of course, we are worried for them. We’ve made friends, and we’re concerned about their jobs.”
I return to the Project X team and speak to Vanessa Ho, the executive director. “Orchard Towers is a place the media likes to demonize,” she states. “Since the murder a couple of years ago, the headlines have focused on negative stories. Many times, the blame is unfairly placed on the sex workers.”
She suggests that, while there are significant issues at Orchard Towers, there is potential to develop a properly managed entertainment district. “If we can replicate the regulatory framework of Geylang, where anti-vice police oversee brothels, we can create a system that benefits landlords, clients, and workers alike,” she argues.
Vanessa warns that simply closing down Orchard Towers could lead to unintended consequences, suggesting a potential dispersal effect—where attempts to shut down establishments cause activities to pop up elsewhere. “Instead of spreading out all over Singapore, we should centralize it, implement regulations, and protect those making a living in this space,” she advocates.
